Yesterday, I talked about wanting to own a pre-digital car — i.e. one that doesn’t fucking spy on your every move.
I often wonder what car or cars I’d get to replace the Tiguan, and what’s interesting is that I’m having precisely the same feelings that I have with guns and watches: nothing of recent manufacture at all — especially given that they’re all without exception loaded with electronic gizmos I don’t care for, or else gizmos that spy on you and/or could possibly be used to control your driving. In fact, the more I think about it, I’d probably have to go back to pre-1970s cars — fully resto-modded of course — to find a car that has not a single computer chip in its driving operation.
Here’s a business opportunity, because this is America. (I don’t have the technical skills or capital to follow through on this but I’ll just throw it out there.) Is it possible to turn your car into a mobile Faraday cage? And would it be possible to turn the feature on and off?
I know, car companies and / or the godless insurance industry would probably use their lawyers and lobbyists to outlaw this, just as law enforcement tried to prevent speed-radar scanners, but it’s worth a shot. With a switchable cage, the insurance companies couldn’t exactly deny you coverage or raise your rates if all the data showed was you doing trips to the supermarket once a week.
It’s time for us to fight back against this nonsense, and to borrow an expression: rage against the machine — the machine, in this case, being Big Brother cars, the cunts who make them and sell your data, the even-bigger cunts who strip-mine your personal data, and and the last category of cunts who use your personal data against you.)
I feel a mega-rant coming on, but instead I’ll just go to the range.
And just to make you feel better, if my car was spying on me it could report said destination to… well, anyone who might be interested in such data. Makes you think, dunnit?
You might look at the Dacia cars. I’ve not investigated too closely but they’re billed as simple cars
I just got my new car a Dacia Sandero ( the most basic model, Essential Sce 65 ) they have less Electro Shit than other brand but still. Of course this is europe so.
Is that you, James May?
The Government will reward auto manufacturers and insurance companies for integrating and using equipment that is and will be built into cars under the guise of safety. If it only saves ONE life!
Your questions “Is it possible to turn your car into a mobile Faraday cage? And would it be possible to turn the feature on and off?”
I am NOT a mechanic, however, I think the answer is no. I have a 2018 Toyota. I do like it. It has been a good car. One repair needed so far in owning it, a sensor and wheel hub bearing.
– Why do I say no? Well, my vehicle, and many modern vehicles on the road, has / have – a feature of automatic braking, if a car stops, if something happens in the road etc. There is a sensor in front of the rear view mirror in the windshield. In the Winter time, when the window is foggy before the defroster kicks in or when there is some snow in the way, there is a message “camera system unnavailable”.
When the window clears, it goes back to normal.
– When my wheel hub bearing needed repairing 2 months ago. The wheel hub bearing itself was fine. Not broken in and of itself (no noise, bearing drove good and didn’t need replacing). However, there is a wheel speed sensor that went to lunch on one of my wheels. That wheel speed sensor is paired with another sensor INSIDE OF THE WHEEL HUB BEARING. Toyota bearings are one piece, sealed from the factory, so no need to remove and press them in and grease them. But you also can’t remove the sensor from them.
Toyota dealer took 6 days to replace is (my regular mechanic was backed up 3 weeks and I had a warranty so I dealt with the dealer).
Anyways, when the bearing went out, or rather sensor within the bearing – all kinds of lights on my dash. Car went into 2WD only mode (AWD not available when a sensor goes out). Many other lights on.
Now, my Toyota is a 2018. I could still drive it normal speeds, just in 2wd not AWD.
The service writer said in many newer models, 2020 and newer, the vehicle also will not let you drive above 40 mph when this type of failure happens.
So, I don’t think it will be possible to mask features of these new vehicles.
And the insurance, if they find out you did, I think they will jack your rates or cancel the policy you purchased. Just a guess, I could be wrong.
The Govt just wants to know where you are at all times. During the next SCAMdemic, will the Govt shut your vehicle off if you drive somewhere they deem you should not have?
If you want to avoid this, one other option is what is referred to as buying a “modern classic”. Find a vehicle in good condition that was made between 1998 and 2016. Aka “MODERN classic”. Texas where you are might be easier than the rust belt, as around the rust belt, cars run great, the engines run for a long time with good upkeep, but the bodies and frames and unibodies rot.
Good luck and happy motoring.
It’s not all bad. All cars come with an ODB2 Port ( Under the Dash near the steering wheel. Using that common port allows access to the CAN Bus and the ECU’s that are the digital brains of the car. Scanners that can read and reset error messages are available for short money. Under “Right to Repair Laws” Manufacturers have to provide access to the code that runs the car systems so independent repair facilities can repair cars.
After market “Chips” are available for performance cars ( and most Hondas since there is a large market for “Modded Ricers” – have you watched any of the Fast & Furious Movies ?? ) that allow things like remapping the fuel supply maps for the electronic fuel injection systems that all cars now have are readily available and easily allow for larger replacement turbo chargers.
It’s all software based, and of course software can be changed, modified or replaced. Doing so of course will void any warentee.
Even Commies like Gavin Newsome have been forced to back away from things like speed controller legislation. Seem he forgot that Califorian still has a very Large Car Culture community.
https://jalopnik.com/california-wusses-out-on-weak-speed-limiters-law-1851660928#:~:text=Again,%20the%20intelligent%20speed%20assistance%20systems%20mandated%20in
“ Under “Right to Repair Laws” Manufacturers have to provide access to the code that runs the car systems so independent repair facilities can repair cars.”
3 things
1 – a private mechanic still needs to purchase EXPENSIVE equipment – yes he has the right to repair and has the right to get parts and documentation. But it does cost money for equipment. Not every private mechanic can afford these scanners and tools that cost thousands of dollars
2 – of course you can access a vehicle computer via the port. There’s still limited things you can do and still have the vehicle run. A performance chip doesn’t solve a dead sensor. And many aftermarket parts aren’t as long lasting as oem. Some are. Not all.
3 – right to repair doesn’t fix a dead sensor in a wheel hub bearing.
Not trying to be rude but your reply doesn’t really address the issue here
Most of us want to drive a machine down the road, we don’t want to drive a computer down the road.
Simple is better. Too much shit on today’s cars. And the roads are no safer and the vehicles are no more reliable. And the cost of new vehicles is atrocious
Replacing a Wheel Bearing with a new one in the hub is a fairly straight forward job that I have done myself. 6 days to replace a bearing sounds like a scheduling and parts delivery problem, not a difficulty problem. The sensor is likely outside the bearing. The bearing more likely includes some sort of passive trigger to allow the sensor to count rotations. But it doesn’t really matter, either way the car is basically out of service until repaired. That same sensor system also is used by the anti lock brakes and in some cars ( like Porsches ) the stability management system.
One of the problems faced by both Dealers and independent repair shops is scarcity of trained technicians who can do these sorts of repairs. AI will probably help with the diagnosis and correct repair procedures, but you still need someone willing to do the procedure.
I understand the desire to return to a simpler time, but I also like the reliability, performance and convivence of a Modern vehicle. None of that was really there in the 70’s, it only seems like it because we all repress the memories of the leaky windows, the times it didn’t start, or left you stranded on the side of the road.
GT3Ted You state “ I understand the desire to return to a simpler time, but I also like the reliability, performance and convivence of a Modern vehicle. None of that was really there in the 70’s, it only seems like it because we all repress the memories of the leaky windows, the times it didn’t start, or left you stranded on the side of the road.”
Just a friendly reminder I didn’t say anything about going to 70s vehicles. Just to clarify check what I stated above in my post
“ If you want to avoid this, one other option is what is referred to as buying a “modern classic”. Find a vehicle in good condition that was made between 1998 and 2016. Aka “MODERN classic”. Texas where you are might be easier than the rust belt, as around the rust belt, cars run great, the engines run for a long time with good upkeep, but the bodies and frames and unibodies rot.
Good luck and happy motoring.”
Also I didn’t say that a wheel hub bearing change was difficult in and of itself I said it’s complicated by extra sensors. And yes 6 days is due to waiting for parts which come from overseas and also a lack of technicians. This is yet another issue. I was simply addressing the complexity of the vehicles.
I guess it all depends on what you consider computerized. If you think about it, any vehicle with airbags is going to have computer sensors in it, so just with that you’re going back 30+ years. Electronic ignition (vs. points) uses computer chips to control the timing.
I think to accomplish what you want, you’re going to need some old school mechanical skills to keep that thing running properly. Now-a-days nobody will want to work on it (nor will they have the skill set to).
It’ll be easier if you just move to a golf cart community.
There’s a balance. Airbags are one thing
Having a 5G hotspot in your car with sensors to tell a dealer or the cops about your driving or parts in your car? Fuck that
Airbags. Basic sensors for abs or fuel level etc ok
If the car talks to other peoples shit that gets info on me and my car that I bought? How about go fuck yourself to the govt the insurance companies and the manufacturers.
I agree with CoffeeMan. Pre internet vehicles are OK but who keeps them running, even if spares can be found. I say go Alinsky – there must be hackers who could inject a “misinformation” system in to the imbedded processors which are apparently not that secure anyway – see stuxnet. Something like messing with tracking by emitting wildly wrong geolocation. Hm – I should brush up my python over bluetooth.
Never knew that Colt made the Python bluetooth accessible.
We are currently in the process of buying a “new” car–either a brand new off the lot car (which neither of us have ever had), or something 2-3 years old with low mileage.
At least one of the sales weasels we spoke with indicated that we could “opt out” of the data sharing schtuff.
But that also means that you lose out on the features based on those.
See also this: https://reason.com/2024/03/25/stop-your-car-from-spying-on-you/
https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=39819401
The answer to the faraday cage is probably not. A ground is required and cars aren’t grounded (to the earf). You would need a mesh screen in the windows.
If it’s for your mobile phone, just get a bag or turn it off.
For the newer cars with spy tech, you’d need to rip out the gear, and somehow tell the computer that either it was still working or delete it out of the code altogether.
That’s a lot of work.
Far cheaper and easier to find a vehicle just pre-nanny state monitoring, with limited tech and fix it up.
Hell, I’d buy an old beetle to restore if I could find one. Damn cars are simple as a butter churn.
And now we move onto RoboFridge. I’ve been pricing potential replacements for my aging side-by-side fridge/freezer. Who in the blue fuck needs a “smart” fridge, enabling me to see what’s inside 24/7, from anywhere in the world?? I already know about the dead hooker. I’m the one who put her there, FFS.
This JUST happened to me. Our old fridge/freezer had a part fail that is unobtainium. Went to buy a new one and said to the salesman “I got almost 30 years out of my $600 Kenmore, will I get the same lifespan out of your $1800 option” He literally laughed in my face.
And at least in my area you’re not going to go to a different dealer. They all are within $25 of each other.
I have seen the future and it is stupid.
I hate to say this. Because I’m in this process right now. Older cars are fine if not flashy, but someone/thing out there seems to be trying to squeeze out the availability of replacement parts when something breaks.
I had the quintessential no-tech ride when I lived in Arizona 10 years ago and foolishly let it go when I moved back to Virginia. It was a 1977 CJ5 chassis that I powered with an Isuzu C240 diesel crate engine that was originally intended for use at sea, so it was weather hardened. Jeep made a version with the C240 in ’77, but it was for export only. Parts were easy to come by in the Philippines, so the conversion to the diesel engine was smooth.
Body was frame-off sandblasted, rust proofed and powder coated in desert beige; tub extended, roll bar upgraded so it looked like a Scrambler. Top speed was maybe 55mph, but the torque was off the charts good. A real stump puller. Fuel gauge, battery gauge, glow temp indicator were the only electrics (beyond the Overland Light package). I probably had $10K in it, if that. Ugly as sin but that C240 was the best engine for all purpose ranch work and long-hauling a trailer. My best bud there (since passed), drove it to Sturgis and back a couple of years ago. I lost track of it after he died, but I hope it’s been used well. I’d buy it back if I could find it.
Even as late as the TJ you can have a pretty much off-grid vehicle that’s easy to fix, fun to drive, and if maintained, will last another 20 years. Only problems with the TJ is no cargo space and a biodegradable frame (which isn’t as big an issue as you’d think).
This video is worth a watch for someone who appreciates cool old transport.
https://youtu.be/7M9X_YtHsZY
Sadly, this car wouldn’t work for me as I am 66 years old and not able to accordion my 6’6” into little MGs any more.
looks like Obama’s ‘Cash-For-Clunkers’ worked quite well
My wife’s cousin (very wealthy and always looking to save money) was given an addition (to record acceleration/deceleration) to put in her car for a 6% reduction in rates: then she loaned the car to my wife
If you have a phone they can track you anyway, which is why spooks normally only turn on their phones when extremely necessary and when they’re at a 10-4 like a mall that they’re going to vacate immediately. Don’t blame auto manufacturers if some shit for brains pollys dictate that 25% of sales must be EVs. The manufacturers have to engage in elaborate subterfuges like pre-registering cars that then sit on the dealers’ lots for a year or more and have to be sold at massive discounts. To recover these huge losses the dealers and manufacturers have to hike the prices of ICEs sky high.
You don’t need a faraday cage. You need to
1) Find the car’s telematics unit. This is the car’s modem/cell phone. It’s location can be found in the car’s service manual, which is available online.
2) Access the unit. It’s usually under a bit of trim, so you have to be confident with managing the snap clips.
3) Unplug the damned thing.
4) If desired, dismount it and hang it from the mirror as a warning to the other telematics units.
My 2020 Ford Explorer’s was bolted under the trim over the rear left wheel. There were 2 antennas and 1 data/power harness to unplug. The whole thing took me an hour. Seriously.
That doesn’t work anymore. If the vehicle’s computer cannot “call home” it will disable the vehicle for “safety” (I’ve read alternatives where you can drive 15mph or less). A logging company discovered this with a new Ford truck in Oregon. The truck stopped working, and when they had it towed out for repair, it suddenly started working again. The explanation from the dealer was that the truck’s computer couldn’t contact a cell tower, and therefore couldn’t “phone home’. Once it “phoned home”, it reenabled the truck.
I haven’t found any evidence that this is a general consumer policy. What I have found is that this sort of “mother may I” is implemented in cases of fleet management systems, and in some cases, as a condition of the auto loan, especially among dealerships that specialize in high risk loans.
I have a Honda Civic Hybrid (one of the first model years), and am considering having the battery pack removed, and rebuilt as a standard gas engine vehicle. If it can be done, probably will still cost a bit less than a new I Spy on U model.
I should have a 73 Ford F250 running shortly for an old friend. Electronics = zero.
Battery6, radio, coil, alternator, distributor with mechanical rotor/points/capacitor. Zat is IT. Nothing to tattle to big brother or for them to hack on it.
Once that is done, going to get the 64 Mercedes W111 running, Just like the above, been parked for 24 years. Same style – zero CPU’s or chips, two carburetors instead of one, so mildly more complex.
My bet is that the market for pre chip cars is going to go through the roof. Snag one now wherever you can find em. Oh, I forgot, drown the above in water, pull them out, hose with fresh water, dry out, change fluids. oil all joints, squirt in some new grease and off they go.
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