A Tale Of Two Scopes

As many of you know, I’m a big fan of Meopta riflescopes — the guys who make the Zeiss Conquest line — but I recently had a little cognitive dissonance when looking at options.

Typically, I’m looking for long-range “Boomershoot” target scopes, with fairly high magnification (~18x – 25x).  This time, a Reader asked me to look at a different use for him — shorter-range hunting, if you will, where the magnification needs to be more modest (~10x – 15x), with the only specs being variable focus, an illuminated reticle and a 30mm tube.  Small fields, deep woods, you get the idea.

So I got to this model, and it ticked all the boxes:

Meopta Optika6 2.5-15×44 Illuminated SFP 4C$650

Follow the link if you want the detailed specs.

I was just about to save the page for future reference, when I saw this option:

Meopta MeoSport R 3-15x50mm Illuminated SFP 4C – $450

Once again, the details are at the link.

All of which makes me wonder.  Meopta bills its Meosport line as “entry-level”, and the model above compares very well indeed to its more expensive cousin at the top.  In fact, the Sport looks a little better than the Optika:  a 50mm bell vs. 44mm, and so on.

All of which makes me suspicious.  A fifty-dollar difference in price would be one thing, but a $200 spread?  Long experience in marketing and manufacturing taught me that every price reduction for two identical items comes at the cost of quality, in some way, shape or form.  (The Iron Triangle is:  materials / features + quality + price = an equilibrium constant.  Reduce price, and you have to reduce one or both of the other two.)  But as far as I can tell, the features are more or less identical, and Meopta’s quality has been superb.

For the life of me, however, I can’t fathom the difference between the two scopes.  My penny-pinching nature says “Take the MeoSport”, but experience says, “Buy once, cry once”.

Can anyone shed any light on this issue?


Update:  From Reader Will B comes an email:

The price delta is in the glass coatings.  The more expensive scope has more/better coatings.
I also noticed you mentioned a 30mm tube.  You probably think this lets in more light, that is incorrect.
These scopes are made to the European style where they can hunt at night.  Hence the larger objective.  I have not looked through one of these but I would bet that Meopta is using lens coatings that allow the blue light to remain;  this is because in Europe they can hunt at night.  All Austrian/European scopes emphasize blue light waves.  US scopes use yellow light (think Leupold) as it is pretty good at twilight or dusk.
The reason for a 30mm tube is because Europeans do not generally have the kind of flat shooting rifles we generally use in the US.  The European rounds have a greater arc to them.   So the 30 mm tube allows for more mechanical up and down in the elevation adjustment.    That is the sole purpose of a 30mm tube.
You will not likely need that arc accommodation in a shot under 200 yards unless of course you have a slow shooting round, so usually in the US there is no need for a 30mm tube.
I bought a Conquest years ago.  The mechanicals were excellent, the glass was a single coated lens and it sucked.  I gave it away.
I have a Swarovski and a Schmidt & Bender and a few high-end Leupolds.  You can get great glass for under a thousand dollars.  I am not rich, just patient and have saved to get what I use.  Once you use a truly good scope you are ruined forever.
I will say this:  once you have used a scope that preserves blue light you will never want to use anything else.  They are very bright in daylight and are excellent at lower light levels.

I never knew the light-spectrum differences between Euro scopes and Murkin ones, and this is probably why I tend to prefer the Euro glass.  Thankee for the info.

No Man Should

Talking about young Eli Dicken in yesterday’s post, Reader Butch offers these words of wisdom:

“Everybody wants to be an operator until it’s time to do operator shit.”

New Wife, when seeing me strap on the 1911 for the first time when we went out shopping, once said, “You just can’t wait to shoot someone, can you?”

I repeat now what I said to her then:

“I hope like hell that I never have to shoot another human being — it is the worst thing in the world, you feel like total shit afterwards, and the memory of it can never be forgotten.  So no:  I pray that I never have to pull my gun on someone, unless it’s to protect myself (or you).  But I always carry it, just in case I do.”

The worst thing, however, would be to be caught in a situation where you desperately need a gun, but it’s sitting at home in a safe.  I would be enraged — at myself — for such stupidity.

I don’t think I’m alone in this.

Damn Good Question

I know that the Socialists in Congress have “shelved” their attempt to ban “weapons of war” i.e. ARs and AKs (for the moment), but this little exchange should prove interesting:

As Massie puts it (I paraphrase slightly):  “Who are the Department of Agriculture and Department of Education planning on going to war with, if their employees are to be excepted from this prohibition?”

Let us record the words of the late (and dearly-missed) H.L. Mencken, who stated:

“The only good bureaucrat is one with a pistol to his head.  Put it in his hand and it’s goodbye to the Bill of Rights.”

And quod erat demonstratum, today.

No Argument Here

Some Dude On The Internet gives his opinions on and ranks the 5 Most Accurate Poodleshooters, and having fired all but one of them, I can only agree — which must be the first time I’ve ever agreed with pretty much any YouTuber on this kind of topic when it comes to guns.

The rankings:

5. CZ 75 SP-01 (I prefer the original 75 B, but it’s really a moot point)

4. CANIK TP9 SFX (haven’t shot this one yet, but I’m Willing To Learn)

3. SPRINGFIELD TACTICAL RESPONSE 1911 (1911, ’nuff said.  Shows what I know;  I wasn’t aware that Springfield even made this model in 9mm…)

2. GLOCK 19 (actually, I shoot the silly plastic Glock 17 more accurately than just about any other poodleshooter, but whatever)

1. SIG SAUER P210 TARGET (I’ve only ever shot this once — actually, it was an older P210-6, but I’m sure the new one (P210-9) is just as good.  Even I was capable of 2″ groups at 15 yds, for 200 rounds of 115gr FMJ.  And yeah, it’s spendy, just as Swiss watches cost more than Thai watches).

For me, the SIG is the ONLY one of these that could replace the Browning High Power, with the CZ 75 and Springfield a distant 2a and 2b.

How To Sell

Got the usual email from the folks at Lucky Gunner for 7.62x39mm ammo (among others), and I want to highlight the product blurb from the manufacturer.  Note the highlighted parts:

The big “knocks” against inexpensive “39” ammo are that:

  • the steel casing can damage a gun’s action (it doesn’t)
  • steel casings can’t be reloaded like brass casings can (true)
  • Berdan primers are corrosive (not anymore), and
  • a lot of ranges (e.g. the one where I used to shoot) won’t allow steel / alloy-steel bullets because of potential damage to the backstop.

Every single issue is addressed in the copy — nay, not just addressed but trumpeted.  As marketing/advertising copy, it’s absolutely brilliant.

I know that 40c/round is expensive compared to the old 15c price bracket, but these are different times we live in.  And for AK owners, like I used to be, this looks like a decent bargain.

And who the hell reloads 7.62x39mm anyway?